South Korea’s influence on American popular culture has been evident for a while: Parasite became the first foreign film to win Best Picture at the 2020 Oscars; the Biden administration welcomed BTS to the White House for a visit just two years ago; and achieving ‘glass skin’ is only the latest K-beauty trend on TikTok right now.
The country’s phenomenal reach is called hallyu, a Chinese term coined in the late ’90s that translates to “Korean wave.” It’s used to refer to the global growth in popularity of Korean culture, including film, music, fashion and skincare. Now, it’s the focus of the newest exhibition at the Asian Art Museum of San Francisco, opening Friday, Sept. 27: Hallyu! The Korean Wave.
Right off the bat, the exhibition design, including color schemes and lighting setups, is meticulous. The show begins in darkness, save for spotlights illuminating artifacts, photos and a few pieces of art. This darkness is key; it engulfs visitors and grounds them in South Korea’s history: resistance against Japan’s occupation; the Korean War and the country’s recovery from it; and the emergence of a new South Korean economy. Objects in this opening section not only serve as a physical archive, they lay the groundwork for how brands like Samsung and Hyundai became entwined with everyday American life, and how they opened the door for even more of the country’s cultural output.
Clearly, the curators, including the Asian Art Museum’s Yoon-Ji Choi, have spent a lot of time thinking about the audience this exhibition will draw in (the show was organized with the Victoria and Albert Museum in England). The exhibition’s title wall, rendered in an iridescent, rainbowy color, was picked out of consideration, Choi says, for K-pop fans, whose fandoms often identify with specific, official colors. Not wanting to risk accidentally selecting colors that showed a preference for one group over another, curators opted for the entire color spectrum in hopes of making every fan feel welcome.
To demonstrate what today’s hallyu influence looks like, the Asian Art Museum presents artifacts from its own collection alongside examples of fashion trends from K-dramas and K-thrillers. This includes an interactive piece inspired by the six-time Emmy Award-winning show Squid Game, complete with ominous-looking mannequins wearing the infamous red-hooded jumpsuits and black fencing masks. K-cinema fans will immediately recognize the immersive Parasite installation, which allows visitors to literally step into the cramped Kim family home.
Don’t worry about accidentally missing the music section as you weave through the exhibition, because you’ll hear it before you see it, trust me. Before I could even begin processing Korea’s rich musical history, I immediately recognized the first few bars of “Dumb Dumb” by Red Velvet playing on blast.
While the show includes information on subjects like traditional trot music, the main attraction of this section is K-pop. Included here are actual outfits worn by members of ATEEZ and aespa, as well as concert rails facing a looping projection of K-pop stage performances to give visitors the experience of having barricade tickets at an arena show.
It’s a successful mix of fun pop culture and history. Placards and signage that accompany the costumes, music videos and other K-pop merchandise give context to the cultural power K-pop groups have and how they use it today. SEVENTEEN, for example, are goodwill ambassadors for youth for the United Nations. K-pop idols also have a significant influence on American brands; TWICE’s Nayeon attended New York Fashion Week earlier this year repping Tommy Hilfiger.
Even though hallyu has swept across the globe, there’s a special sweetness to this show’s arrival in San Francisco, Seoul’s sister city. The exhibition is a vibrant homage to South Korea’s traditions and influence, but it’s also a lived, shared identity that exists for both fandoms and diasporic communities. Bay Area venues are always go-to stops for K-music artists on tour, and local stores like SarangHello are well-known hubs for K-pop fans. This exhibition achieves a rare balance, offering a meaningful experience to those well-versed in hallyu culture alongside those curious to learn more.
‘Hallyu! The Korean Wave’ is on view at the Asian Art Museum (200 Larkin St., San Francisco) Sept. 27, 2024–Jan. 6, 2025.